Hello! I hope this finds you with fully satisfied bellies from eating and drinking delicious Turkey Day treats. Being in Nepal, it really does not feel like Thanksgiving...at all. It is still pretty warm here, in the 80's, sunny, and only on occasion do you see colored and fallen leaves. Actually on the trek I had a strange moment of realizing it was fall - after descending from the mountains and getting into nature with vegetation. Even though we were at 17,776 feet and trekking through the snow on the day of the pass, it did not feel like fall.
TJ and I leave for Kathmandu tomorrow, the 28th. Then it's on to India on December 2nd. Now, I know you may be concerned - let's face it, not may be, but you are - with us going to India with such conflict stirring there. I won't lie, I am too. But just to remind you, TJ and I are smart and we'll follow our good instincts - if it is really not seeming like a good idea to stay there, we will leave. There are so many countries I would love to visit in South Asia. Also, we are traveling as low budget as possible, without begging or sleeping on the streets. We never stay at swanky hotels or eat at higher end places - in fact we avoid those areas all together because, well, we simply can't afford it, and it's not our 'style' (if you will). We want to spend as little time as possible in major cities like Delhi and Mumbai...they are disgusting and smell, and there are too many people. Rest assured; or try your darnedest (Parents :) )
It is pretty strange to be leaving Nepal so soon. I have developed such a community and a life here, but I am also excited for what is to come. There have been so many challenges in living here, a developing country; teaching, living with a family, dealing with a money grubbing director (of the school). There have been really trying times, but I have learned more than I expected. Every day has been and continues to be filled with joy, love, laughter, living in the present, and struggle. Struggle with how I fit into the Nepali life, and how I do not in any way. Struggle with the overwhelming senses that fill my nostrils, eyes, ears, and skin. Struggle with teaching students who didn't know how, because they were never given the chance, to utilize their beautiful imaginations. Struggle with eating Dal baht (rice and lentil soup) everyday, twice a day. Struggle with the patriarical ways. Struggle understanding this culture - the caste system, the religion, the ideals on which to build a business...
All of these I wouldn't take back for a second.
In fact, I found myself relishing in these struggles, even when I wanted them to end.
I am thankful for being able to live in this area of the world. In a country that is the 9th poorest in the world; and I come from the most powerful nation in the world. I am thankful for teaching these students and giving them something they have never had. I am thankful for living with a welcoming family. I am thankful I worked my ass off to get here and came independently. I am thankful that Obama is the president, and now there is hope (as an aside, it was amazing to be in this country during the elections...and to see that everyone in the world is really affected by the U.S. government. Everyone.) I am thankful for now having a great travel partner. Mostly I am thankful for my family and friends who continuously support me - in Nepal and in the U.S.
I wish I could have dinner with my 2, or make that 3, families in the States...but I will think of you tonight as I eat mashed potatoes and drink red wine.
Thanks for reading. Lots of Love.
Happy Thanksgiving!
Thursday, November 27, 2008
Monday, November 24, 2008
oh my oh my oh my. first of, I will acknowledge that I have been really slacking on my blog...sorry. The internet hasn't been exactly fast, or working at all in some places, or cheap. Any who, here I am.
We are back in Pokhara...just can't get enough. It is really such a nice place, and we were going to make our way back to Kathmandu but what's the rush. Our original plan was to make our way over to the Everest region, but we realized that was a little unpractical. First, it's basically across the country - so we'd spend 4 days at least traveling by bus - and you don't really get views unless you do several - 10 days of hiking. So, we really didn't have the time or money for that. I am so glad I was able to do the Everest flight...thank you again and again, Dad.
We will spend a couple nights at a village, Nagrakot, where you can get views during sunrise and sunset, when the sky''s most clear, or Everest. It will be tiny, but it's better than not seeing it at all.
Our adventures have been amazing. Once leaving Pokhara we went to Chitwan National Park. It was pretty surreal to be in a completely different environment than before: enormous peaks to total jungle with tigers and rhinos and the like.
We went on a 1/2 day walk where we were only so lucky as to see monkeys and birds. Then we went on a 1/2 day jeep safari, where we not only saw those creatures but rhinos! So cool! The next day we went on an elephant safari...I am torn between loving it and hating it, because it really makes me sad to see elephants treated so horribly and to think HOW much money is given to ride some elephants...so sad.
The best and most fun part by far was getting bathed by our elephant. She was so sweet and was dunking us, and spraying us with her trunk...we'd crawl on and she'd make us fall in the river again. So much fun.
From there we went to Lumbini. It was truly amazing to be at such a place - with such history, religion, and life. Lumbini it self wasn't a great village, dirty, but going into the park full of Buddhist monasteries, temples, meditation centers, and the very site of Buddha's birth was more than great.
We left on the night bus the day we decided to go back to Pokhara. (I love the spontaneity of our adventures, it makes it so much more exciting.) All was well, until I got really really sick. I highly recommend that you never vomit on an overnight bus...it was so miserable. So we are on our 3rd day here, though this is the first day I am actually out and about. And it's taken up quite a bit of energy. Who knows why I got sick? ... brushing my teeth with the water, maybe?
The good news is that I had a full meal this morning, and so far so good.
I will try to keep this sucka up more, promise.
We are back in Pokhara...just can't get enough. It is really such a nice place, and we were going to make our way back to Kathmandu but what's the rush. Our original plan was to make our way over to the Everest region, but we realized that was a little unpractical. First, it's basically across the country - so we'd spend 4 days at least traveling by bus - and you don't really get views unless you do several - 10 days of hiking. So, we really didn't have the time or money for that. I am so glad I was able to do the Everest flight...thank you again and again, Dad.
We will spend a couple nights at a village, Nagrakot, where you can get views during sunrise and sunset, when the sky''s most clear, or Everest. It will be tiny, but it's better than not seeing it at all.
Our adventures have been amazing. Once leaving Pokhara we went to Chitwan National Park. It was pretty surreal to be in a completely different environment than before: enormous peaks to total jungle with tigers and rhinos and the like.
We went on a 1/2 day walk where we were only so lucky as to see monkeys and birds. Then we went on a 1/2 day jeep safari, where we not only saw those creatures but rhinos! So cool! The next day we went on an elephant safari...I am torn between loving it and hating it, because it really makes me sad to see elephants treated so horribly and to think HOW much money is given to ride some elephants...so sad.
The best and most fun part by far was getting bathed by our elephant. She was so sweet and was dunking us, and spraying us with her trunk...we'd crawl on and she'd make us fall in the river again. So much fun.
From there we went to Lumbini. It was truly amazing to be at such a place - with such history, religion, and life. Lumbini it self wasn't a great village, dirty, but going into the park full of Buddhist monasteries, temples, meditation centers, and the very site of Buddha's birth was more than great.
We left on the night bus the day we decided to go back to Pokhara. (I love the spontaneity of our adventures, it makes it so much more exciting.) All was well, until I got really really sick. I highly recommend that you never vomit on an overnight bus...it was so miserable. So we are on our 3rd day here, though this is the first day I am actually out and about. And it's taken up quite a bit of energy. Who knows why I got sick? ... brushing my teeth with the water, maybe?
The good news is that I had a full meal this morning, and so far so good.
I will try to keep this sucka up more, promise.
Sunday, November 16, 2008
Namaste! Hola! HEEEEEELLLLLLLLLLLOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!
Back from the trek. It was amazing. Just so surreal and incredible to be surrounded by such gigantic peaks. We ended up only doing the Annapurna Circuit trek, walking mostly everyday and we were gone for 22 days. Now we are in Pokhara chillin by a lake and relaxing, treating ourselves to pizza and wine.
The trek starts in a village called Beshishar. The big 'goal' was the Thorang La Pass at 17,776 feet, after about 10 days of continuous hiking. Not only was the mountains and the nature gorgeous, but walking through villages and meeting people and playing with kids was also wonderful. The first rest day, to acclimatize, was at Manang. I was actually really feeling affects of altitude. I had a headache, and was tired, pretty nauseous, and sometimes felt really dizzy. It is crazy to get out of breath for doing the littlest thing like drinking water, and to feel your heart beating really fast especially when hiking. So we decided to stay in Manang for an extra day to so I could better acclimatize. There is no hurry if you are feeling shitty and a little nervous about getting altitude sickness, HAPE, or HACE. At first I was bummed to stay an extra day, but got over that quick.
Reaching the pass was so rewarding. The day of the pass we had to go up over 2,000feet in elevation and down 6,000 feet...a long day, especially at high elevation. The views were spectacular and it was great to relish in that sense of accomplishment. Until you go down. It's never fun to go down so much, especially with 30 lbs packs. Though it did feel good to go down in elevation, even with shaky legs. When we got to Jomsom, a pretty big village, we realized that we needed cash if we wanted to eat and sleep on the trail for 2.5 more weeks. (It was more expensive than we planned for.) Of course, by the time we checked into a guesthouse and then went to the ATM - the only one on the trail - it was closed. The next day was a holiday. The next day there was low power...but they finally turned it on, so off we went. A couple of days later TJ got really sick, so we were in another village for a couple of days. By the end of that, we decided to cut it short. TJ was really hiked out and recovering from being so sick, and I use it as another excuse to come back and do the Base Camp trek. The only really shitty thing was that TJ's camera broke before the pass. Luckily in Manang we go a little disposable, hopefully they turn out. And we bought a camera in Pokhara for the rest of the trip.
All in all it has been amazing.
Tomorrow we leave to go to the Chitwan National Park, to bathe elephants and go on a jungle safari. I am really stoked, I just hope the elephants are treated kindly or I will probably cry.
After Chitwan we will go to Lumbini; a village right on the boarder of India. The birthplace of Buddha.
Then we'll jet over to the Everest Region to catch some views of the highest mountain in the world.
After that, it's back to Kathmandu. I'll say good-buy to the students at school and my family and friends, and we're off to India.
Back from the trek. It was amazing. Just so surreal and incredible to be surrounded by such gigantic peaks. We ended up only doing the Annapurna Circuit trek, walking mostly everyday and we were gone for 22 days. Now we are in Pokhara chillin by a lake and relaxing, treating ourselves to pizza and wine.
The trek starts in a village called Beshishar. The big 'goal' was the Thorang La Pass at 17,776 feet, after about 10 days of continuous hiking. Not only was the mountains and the nature gorgeous, but walking through villages and meeting people and playing with kids was also wonderful. The first rest day, to acclimatize, was at Manang. I was actually really feeling affects of altitude. I had a headache, and was tired, pretty nauseous, and sometimes felt really dizzy. It is crazy to get out of breath for doing the littlest thing like drinking water, and to feel your heart beating really fast especially when hiking. So we decided to stay in Manang for an extra day to so I could better acclimatize. There is no hurry if you are feeling shitty and a little nervous about getting altitude sickness, HAPE, or HACE. At first I was bummed to stay an extra day, but got over that quick.
Reaching the pass was so rewarding. The day of the pass we had to go up over 2,000feet in elevation and down 6,000 feet...a long day, especially at high elevation. The views were spectacular and it was great to relish in that sense of accomplishment. Until you go down. It's never fun to go down so much, especially with 30 lbs packs. Though it did feel good to go down in elevation, even with shaky legs. When we got to Jomsom, a pretty big village, we realized that we needed cash if we wanted to eat and sleep on the trail for 2.5 more weeks. (It was more expensive than we planned for.) Of course, by the time we checked into a guesthouse and then went to the ATM - the only one on the trail - it was closed. The next day was a holiday. The next day there was low power...but they finally turned it on, so off we went. A couple of days later TJ got really sick, so we were in another village for a couple of days. By the end of that, we decided to cut it short. TJ was really hiked out and recovering from being so sick, and I use it as another excuse to come back and do the Base Camp trek. The only really shitty thing was that TJ's camera broke before the pass. Luckily in Manang we go a little disposable, hopefully they turn out. And we bought a camera in Pokhara for the rest of the trip.
All in all it has been amazing.
Tomorrow we leave to go to the Chitwan National Park, to bathe elephants and go on a jungle safari. I am really stoked, I just hope the elephants are treated kindly or I will probably cry.
After Chitwan we will go to Lumbini; a village right on the boarder of India. The birthplace of Buddha.
Then we'll jet over to the Everest Region to catch some views of the highest mountain in the world.
After that, it's back to Kathmandu. I'll say good-buy to the students at school and my family and friends, and we're off to India.
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