Friday, October 10, 2008

Finding something

All is still well with me in one of the holiest cities in India. I am having such an incredible time. 2 days ago I went to the University here, Banaras U. It is HUGE. I mean, really really large and in charge. It is the biggest college in all of Asia, so it damn well better be big. It was like going far away. The campus was gorgeous, with thousands of trees and so green. All of the buildings were ancient looking, and there are 3 of the largest temples there. It was so nice to be able to go 10 minutes and be in quiet (no honking allowed, and I could sit in peaceful green and read. I miss reading in parks so much).
In the evening I walked straight into a procession that was happening for the Durga Festival. It is the largest Hindu festival in India. All over the city, and probably the country, there were tents with statues, made from clay and painted in radiant colors, of the Gods they worship for this festival. Durga is the Goddess who brings forth good fortune for the less fortunate, and prosperity for the year to come. They took all of the statues from the dozens of tents (I am sure there is some sort of better name for them, but I will call them 'tents', as I do not know the more proper/religious/Hindi name for these 'tents') and put them in the bed of trucks. There were men leading the procession playing drums and cymbals, dancing and singing, and playing with fire (again, maybe there is a better word for the 'playing with fire' part). About a hundred people were following the truck, and the dancers, clapping and singing along. I decided to join. It was so fun. There was such an incredible energy radiating through out the city. Full of hope and freedom. And this was just one of the hundreds of processions that was occurring. We - I can be included in this now - went down to Assi Ghat, singing and dancing, clapping and chanting. The men carried the statues down to the water, where they were put on boats. The boats all went to bring the statues to a couple of specific ghats where the following day(s) people go to worship them. Then they are sent down the Ganges River, where the statues (since made of clay) become one again with the earth and those who are also in the heart of the Ganges and the Gods. The cycle is therefore never ending, and can only continue for years to come.

Beautiful.

Yesterday, Friday, I went to Sarnath. Sarnath is a part of Varanasi - but a world of it's own. It is the place where Buddha gave his first sermon and he was then on recognized at a huge religious leader. Marie (my french friend who now lives here) has a friend who has a shop right across from the main gate, Maha Dev. He is an elder Indian with such an incredible spirit and smile, and makes the best Lassi I have ever had in my life. I went to his shop first thing, where I tasted God itself (the banana lassi) and had chai with him. Then I went into the park, where the Mahabodi Temple is. There are disagreements as to the site of the first sermon, though they are all in the same 1km vicinity. This temple though, radiated energy that was vibrating to your soul. I know that sounds cheesy and cliche, but really it was something different than any other place on earth. The temple was made of marble stone, and inside was painted with Buddha and his followers, the temptations of desire and anger, and the enlightened one. Straight when you walk in is a gigantic gold statue of Buddha. For those of you who know me, I am not religious. Spiritual yes, but I have never followed a religion.
For the first time in my life, I prayed. I was compelled to get on my knees and pray. That has never happened to me. Even when some of the most important people in my life died. But yesterday, in the midst of all the people swarming in to see the sight of Buddha's first sermon, and people taking pictures for a donation, I got down and I brought my hands together and I prayed. And I was brought to tears. Not because I was sad or unhappy. They just streamed out of my eyes with no control. I can't explain how I felt. But it was incredible and sublime, and something I have never experienced before.
Next to the temple is a park, and to the side of that is where monasteries were, until they were destroyed with the Muslim control to bring forth Hinduism. In addition to the remains of the monasteries of Buddha were the remains of the Dharmarajika Stupa where it concealed a green marble casket full of human bones, decayed pearls, and a gold leaf. Next to that, the only standing 'monument' is the Dharmekh Stupa, otherwise known as Dharma Chakra Stupa. It is made of 33.5 meters of stone and forms a cylindrical tower...another place that is argued as to where Buddha gave his first sermon. All in all it is incredible. There is so much history there, and such peace. I sat by the sights of the monasteries and meditated for I don't know how long. I have no words to describe how serene this experience was.
After I meditated, I looked over and someone was walking toward me. Maha Dev's son. He asked me if I wanted to see the rest of the temples in Sarnath. Of course! So we hoped on his motorbike and he took me to see the temples and monasteries.
The first place we went to was a Tibetan Monastery. They were praying, performing chants and playing long metal horns and huge drums. It is what you would hear on any film about Tibetan Buddhism...sounding just like that. We were able to sit there, with another gigantic gold Buddha statue in front of us. It is a new monastery, that took 15 years to build. (Apparently the Dali Lama is coming in December to this monastery.)
After sitting in a park by there for a while, we went to the Burmese Vihara, of course, another amazing place.
Following that we went to a place called the Great Light House. I am not too sure what 'faith' this is, as it represented all faiths, along with robots. It does make me curious though (they have a site in Redmond, WA if you are interested).
Then we went to the Thai temple; the Japanese Temple (with some of the most detailed wood work I have ever seen - of Buddha); another, very old, Tibetan monastery; A Shiva Temple (the only one of the Hindu faith); and a Chinese Temple (with my beloved Laughing Buddha).

It was such a powerful day. It is so interesting, and challenging, to be in such a historically religious place. I feel a true connection to Buddhism. Not because I visited all of these places, but because of such an idea of peace within ones' self. I have always been intrigued by this religion; and I have never been so moved my a religion before.

Maybe it is being on this side of the world that is honing this within me. Maybe it is practicing yoga and meditation, and finding such peace. Maybe it is learning more about the religion that makes it even more interesting as to how I can apply the practices into my life practically.
I don't know.

I do know that being in India has been such a different learning experience...and especially because I was able to have this experience on my own. I have learned a lot about myself. Not just in the last 5 days, but in the last 3.5 months. I have learned what I am passionate about, and what I want to change - or morph - about myself.
I want to travel (and not doing volunteer work my whole life, though that would be extremely satisfying I have to eat and live) bringing theatre to those who are not privileged so they can express their lives and hardships. I want to do theatre, so I can express myself and humanity I am surrounded by...humanity that people choose to ignore.
Only time can tell...
I guess we'll see.

2 comments:

Mom said...

Geez Jessica, I have a great feeling about you and your spirituality right now. I am going to pick a "buddha" card for you right now: BALANCE (TOLA)
WOW. We will be home (our) Monday evening....Loving you, Mom

Phyllis said...

Jess,

Thank you for sharing your innermost thoughts and feelings as you travel on this special journey! Sounds like TJ has also experienced some things that are surreal.
When you go to India I'm sure you'll visit some Ashrams on the east coast--India is so full of history. Glad you're getting to experience it! We're living vicariously through the two of you. Someday you and TJ will have to take us over there and be our guides!
Missing you!
Phyllis